Climbing in Ten Sleep, Wyoming

Updated: Sep 3, 2020

This summer we've been making our rounds. After California, we busted out some work for a couple of weeks and took off again. This time to Ten Sleep, WY. From Boulder, it's about 6.5 hours north. Soon enough, you're itching to climb as you view the limestone cliffs.

Camping in Ten Sleep is free on the Old Road and there are campgrounds for about $14 a night nearby. (Update: A new camping area opened up in 2016: The Ten Sleep Rock Ranch) Our camping spot/my new summer home sat alongside the creek.

During the summer, the walls start to hit shade after one, so if you like to sleep in a little and enjoy your cup of coffee, this is your place. When any clouds rolled in a little earlier, we took advantage of having some shade on the approaches. We had thunderstorms almost everyday on our trip but the rock dried out quickly and it's smart to pack a shell.  Also, you get long summer days. The sun sets a little later leaving you some light til 930 leaving you plenty of time to enjoy the rock.

The climbing here gives you pockets in every size, crimps and some finger and hand jams.  There are climbs in every range but even more 10+ range. Here is a list of what we got on.

Mondo Beyondo: Beer Bong 10b,Colors of Heaven 10+, Number One Enemy 11a, Wagon Wheel of Death 11c, Captain Insano 11d, Strut your Funky Stuff 12a, Head like a Hole 12a, Happiness in Slavery 12b, EKV 12c,  Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome 12d, Crown Prince Abdullah 12d and Burden of Immortality 13a. Dry Wall: Dry Wall 85 10- and Da Illa Pilla 13a. Superratic: Big Yellow Butterfly 10b/11a, I just do Eyes 11b, Crazy Wynoma 11d, The Great White Behemoth, Esplanada 12d, Khyberspace 13a and Hellion 13c.  This is only a little dent in the book. We still have a list that we would love to tick off.  

We planned our trip around the Fourth of July week. There are climbers from all over that ready to have a good time. Some walls may be crowded but walk around the corner and something will be open. Take a rest day on the 4th and watch the local parade and go to the rodeo. During the parade, candy, and water balloons were thrown around and we even scored ice cream sandwiches. At the rodeo we were entertained with Bull riding, a Wild Horse race, Mutton Bustin', Barrell races and rodeo clowns. Afterwards there's a potluck at the campground. I baked my first cake on the fire, an Upside Pineapple Cake which turned out to be a success. The trip was amazing and I'm really psyched to come back. Hopefully before the cold comes in again. But if not, then this may be a new 4th of July tradition.

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